About This Newsletter

Welcome to our newsletter dedicated to gardening enthusiasts in Nevada! Here, the Master Gardener Volunteers of Washoe County are committed to fostering a community of gardening knowledge and education. Through this publication, we aim to provide research-based horticulture insights for our readers. Each quarter, we offer a wealth of information covering various aspects of gardening, from upcoming garden events to advice on topics ranging from pest control to sustainable gardening practices. Join us as we explore the science and artistry of gardening together!

A Note From the Editors

Being Part of Something Bigger

From the desk of Rachel McClure,
Washoe County Master Gardener Coordinator

two people wearing neon colored vests under white tent surrounded by plants in trays
Master Gardeners Abby Jarrett and Georgette Porter are helping at the recent plant sale.
Photo credit Rachel McClure

 

It’s that time of year again.  Finally!  It’s time to plant.

Here in Northern Nevada, it is always such a guessing game.  When will it be warm, when is the last freeze, is this Spring or is it just a tease?!  It is also time to plant more than just our gardens.

Home Horticulture Certification program has open registration.  If you have ever been interested in becoming a Master Gardener, here is the first step. Our educational process is divided into two parts. Part one, Home Horticulture Certificate, which goes over all the basics for gardening here in Nevada (but unfortunately does not answer the, when is the last freeze question). Part two (both are required to be a Master Gardener) builds on part one and is the Master Gardener series.

If you follow this newsletter, you have heard me say Master Gardeners are amazing people before.  Without doubt, I will say it again.  Simply because they are.

Master Gardener Volunteers do so much. They take time to learn science based horticultural information so they can answer questions. They lead educational activities in their community so people can learn. They dig in and get dirty when there is a garden in need. They volunteer their time and share their knowledge in our community week after week. They are amazing.

They make friends wherever they go. They encourage people to do more and be more. They bring meaning to so many different parts of our community. They are generous and kind. If you are lucky enough to know a Master Gardener, that is wonderful! If not, go to one of their events and say “Hi.” It will be worth your time.

If you are interested or know someone who is, please share this information with them.

Join us at one of our upcoming events:

What's Happening This Summer

Master Gardeners will continue to give short presentations on a wide range of gardening topics at various locations this summer.  A mobile Master Gardener help desk will be available at some locations as well.  See Locations, dates, and times below.

Garden Talks at the Library


Where: Spanish Springs Library, 7100A Pyramid Way, Sparks
Talks will be held monthly on the second Sunday from 1:30 to 3 p.m., and the mobile help desk will be available from 1 to 4 p.m.. 

June 14, 2026
1:30 p.m. - The Importance of Planting Native Milkweed to Support Monarch Butterflies: Monarch butterflies are among the most famous and beloved butterflies in North America. These butterflies migrate hundreds of miles from Mexico and southern California to the northern U.S. and Canada, where they lay eggs on native milkweed plants, the only plant their larvae will feed on. Providing native milkweeds in your garden can help sustain these butterflies. Come join Master Gardener Tricia Howarth to learn about native milkweed care and sources for these plants.

2 p.m. - Welcoming Pollinators Into Your Garden: Pollinators are a critical part of our planet’s ecosystems. Master Gardener Leslie Edgington will show you how to make pollinators welcome in your yard with great plants to attract them and nourish them.

2:30 p.m. - Harvesting and Curing Garlic: Did you plant garlic last fall and are now wondering when you should harvest it? Master Gardener Gary Garrett will teach you all about the right time to harvest your garlic and how to cure and store your bulbs.

July 12, 2026
1:30 p.m. - What’s Eating My Plants?: Do you have pests in your vegetable garden? Master Gardener Mary Eklund will discuss common vegetable garden pest identification and control measures.

2 p.m. - Common Tomato Problems: Are your tomato plants not producing as well as you’d like? Are you wondering if something is wrong with your tomatoes? Master Gardener Intern Connie Hetzel will discuss common tomato problems and strategies to improve your tomato production.

2:30 p.m. - Beating the Heat in the Summer Garden: Master Gardener Intern Carolyn White will share strategies and tips to help your garden thrive during the extreme heat of the season. 

Aug. 9, 2026
1:30 p.m. Why and How to Garden with Native Plants: Planting native plants is always encouraged – did you ever wonder why? Join Master Gardener Intern Hannah Bishop-Moser to learn why planting natives is desirable and how to do it successfully.

2 p.m. Improving Your Lawn with Clover: Clover in your lawn is not a bad thing; it can actually improve your lawn! Learn the ins and outs of adding clover to your lawn with Master Gardener Intern Fred DeSousa.

2:30 p.m.  Planting Perennials in the Fall: Did you know fall is a great time to plant perennials? Master Gardener Intern Lisa Stevens will share tips and tricks for planting perennials in the fall.

Sept. 13, 2026
1:30 p.m.  Winterizing for Pollinators: Most gardeners welcome pollinators in their gardens in the spring. What can you do in the fall to help pollinators overwinter in your yard and be there when you need them? Master Gardener Kathi Linehan will share practical ways you can help pollinators this winter.

2 p.m.  Get to Know Your Soil: You know it’s important to understand the soil in your yard, but where to begin? Master Gardener Colleen Kohlsaat will discuss the nuts and bolts of soil, and ways to improve your soil for growing healthy plants.

2:30 p.m.  How to Propagate Dahlias: Dahlias generally don’t overwinter well in our area. But you needn’t buy them anew every year. You can lift them, divide the tubers, and have even more dahlias for next spring.  Master Gardener Deb Henderson is a dahlia expert who will teach you what you need to know.

Third Thursday Evening Garden Talks 


Where: Rancho San Rafael Regional Park, 1595 N. Sierra St., Reno
Join Washoe County Cooperative Extension Master Gardeners on the third Thursdays in June, July, August, and September for evening garden talks. Talks will be held in the park’s  community garden, beginning at 6 p.m. and ending by 7:30 p.m.  A help desk will also be available during the talks.

June 18, 2026
6 p.m. - All About Native Penstemon presented by Dawn Detton

6:30 p.m. - What’s Eating My Plants presented by Cody Phinney

7 p.m. Square Foot Gardening presented by Gretchen Bocks

Thursday, July 16, 2026

6 p.m.:  Preservation Techniques, presented by Doreen Spires

6:30 p.m.:  Growing Lavender, presented by Melinda Gustin

7 p.m.:  The Lazy Gardeners Guide to Growing Herbs, presented by Jasmine Mehtha

Thursday, Aug. 20, 2026

6 p.m.:  An Apple a Day, presented by Rene King

6:30 p.m.:  Gardening with Native Plants, presented by Sara Marcus

7 p.m.:  Cover Crops, presented by Kara Harris

Thursday, Sept. 17, 2026

6 p.m.:  Edible Perennials, presented by Victoria Dexter

6:30 p.m.:  Overwintering Crops & Winter Sowing, presented by Elsa De Jong

A Tale of Too Many Crickets

Article and photos by Carolyn White

Gardening as a Tool for Mental Well-Being

Articles and Photos  by Frances Munoz

In recent years, there has been growing recognition of the connection between gardening and mental health. While many of us were first drawn to gardening through a love of plants, design, or food production, we often discover that the benefits extend far beyond the garden bed.

trees with pink flowers in large garden with paths and pink, purple and white tulips

A colorful winding path of tulips and flowering trees at 
Crystal Hermitage Garden invites one to slow down and be present in the moment.

Growing Cilantro in a Warm Climate

Article and Photos by Joanne McClain 

Cilantro (Coriandrum sativum), also known as coriander, is a cool-season herb that does best in a sunny location with well-drained soil. Cilantro and coriander are different parts of the same plant. The leafy plant is called cilantro; coriander refers to the seeds that are used as a spice. The plant can withstand a light frost and even a temperature down to 28 degrees if it is not prolonged.

illustration of cilantro and seeds in a shovel


Seed packet showing the
cilantro herb and coriander seeds.

Cilantro can be a difficult plant to grow in warm climates due to its tendency to bolt in hot weather (when cilantro bolts and produces flowers, the leaves turn bitter). The fresh taste of home-grown cilantro is worth the effort.

Here are some tips for getting the maximum production out of your cilantro in hot weather:

  • Give your cilantro about six hours of sunlight in the beginning of the day with afternoon shade.
  • Mulch your soil to keep it cool.
  • Use shade cloth. This can really make a difference.
  • Water deeply to keep roots cool and moist, but avoid soggy soils.
  • Plant in a container that can be moved to a cooler spot during heat waves.
  • Cilantro develops a long taproot. Planting in a pot that is at least 8 inches deep can delay bolting.
  • Grow cilantro from seed. Nursery starts are already several weeks old and transplanting stress can encourage bolting. Cilantro is easily grown from seed.
  •  Sow new seed about every two weeks for a continuous supply.
  • Check daily for any flower stalks and remove them immediately.
  • Harvest frequently. Cilantro is fast-growing.
  • Harvest sprigs when they are about 6 inches long. You can cut the outer leaves to about 1 to 2 inches above the soil, or snip the main stem down to its last set of leaves. Some growers recommend harvesting no more than a third of the plant at a time.

One of the best things you can do is plant cultivars described as slow-bolting or long-standing. Most seed companies offer such varieties; I found several available by seed in local stores. One simply was labeled “Slow Bolting Cilantro” with no variety mentioned. Only a few of the nursery-grown cilantro plants that I saw were labeled by variety.

If you don’t find what you want in a garden store, check online. Here are some of the varieties available as seed:

Santo: Long-standing cilantro.

Cruiser: Specifically grown to be bolt-resistant. Large aromatic leaves.

Calypso: Slowest to bolt. Claimed to bolt three weeks later than Santo.

Moroccan: This is an early bolter, but is especially good for coriander lovers because of its extra-large seeds. The leaves still have the classic cilantro flavor.

Dwarf Lemon: A compact plant with hints of lemon. Does best in cooler weather, and is not bolt-resistant.

Whether you cut cilantro from your garden or buy it at the grocery store, you can extend its freshness by putting it in a container with about an inch of water. Cover it loosely with a plastic bag and store it in your refrigerator. Change the water every couple of days. This method can keep your cilantro fresh for at least two weeks.

water bottle cut in half


A cut plastic water bottle works
well for storing cut cilantro.

bunch of cilantro in a water bottle

You can leave the cut cilantro on your counter,
but it will stay fresh much longer in the refrigerator.

Cilantro can be frozen, but should only then be used in cooked recipes.

Remember the Water for the Fauna

Article and photos by Becky Colwell

The Trials of Tomato Growing

photos & article by Beth Heggeness

Once again, the unpredictable weather in Reno kept gardeners guessing on when to plant the tomatoes. But presumably the passage of Memorial Day has signaled stability, and most of 2026’s tomato crop is in the ground or soon headed there.

From now until August, the focus is on production practices, pests, and potential problems (okay, I got carried away with the alliteration there). As the old-timers say, the best fertilizer is the footsteps of the farmer, so I hope you can enjoy “walking your garden” for at least a few minutes each day, observing what’s happening there so you can take action as needed. Notice pollinator activity, unidentified flying objects (insects?), a “weed” (especially one you didn’t notice until ACK!)  Or, maybe it’s a whiff of something fragrant, a glimpse of a thriving plant that seemed lackluster just days ago, or the first appearance of fruit on your tomato plant.

Watch the Weather 

Pay attention to the weather news, whether on TV, radio, or online, but keep it local. It matters not what’s happening in Florida, Kansas, Las Vegas, or Sacramento. What’s in store for your garden is all that’s important. Temperatures, high as well as low, matter. High winds matter. Rain matters, and that’s a tough thing to monitor closely in the Washoe Valley, considering that your neighbor’s garden may get a nice little drink while yours stays thirsty. Get a rain gauge and check it. We have a lot of microclimates in our area, including the ones in your own garden space.

Watering the Tomatoes

Newly transplanted tomatoes need a little more frequent watering, but as their roots develop and plants grow taller, aim for 1 to 2 inches a week, taking any natural rain into account. One inch of water will wet a sandy soil to a depth of 10 inches, clay soil 6 inches deep.  Check moisture depth with a trowel just outside of the plant root zone and adjust your watering schedule accordingly.

Tomatoes are in a small family of plants that benefit from deep planting and deep watering. Tomatoes that are encouraged to grow deeper roots will ultimately be more successful. It’s fine to cut back the irrigation a bit on mature plants, but consistently moist soil is important to avoid problems like blossom-end rot. An inch or two of mulch can help maintain soil moisture in the root zone even if the top soil layer is allowed to dry out between watering.

For best production, space your plants about 24 inches apart on all sides. Be sure to provide support for indeterminate vines by staking, caging, or trellising. Use a flexible tie to support vines as they grow.

To Feed or Not to Feed

“Native” soil here is typically nutrient-poor and alkaline, so the general rule is to enrich it every year with organic material, like compost, leaf mold, and well-aged manure. And yes, it’s good to give your new transplants a head start by adding fertilizer. A balanced fertilizer, like 10-10-10, which has equal amounts of nitrogen, potassium, and phosphorus, is fine. A touch more nitrogen is also fine (tomatoes tend to be pretty leafy), but don’t overdo it or you risk growing bountiful foliage at the expense of fruit.

Experts offer differing advice on side-dressing tomatoes (adding additional nutrients as the season progresses). Some recommend a high-nitrogen supplement after the tomatoes have been in the ground for a month or two. But proceed with caution, and be sure you know what sort of climate that expert is growing tomatoes in. Northern Nevada’s growing season is short, especially for the big, juicy slicing tomato varieties that many gardeners crave. At some point the plant has to stop growing and get busy ripening tomatoes.

Pests and Problems

Aphids Early in the season, your tomatoes may be afflicted with aphids, small soft-bodied insects that suck juices from tender, early growth. They cluster on emerging stems and leaves. Carefully inspect emerging growth, including the undersides of leaves. You can gently brush them off by hand, or knock them off plants with a forceful spray of water. A healthy supply of lacewings and lady beetles is your best defense, though, so avoid chemical interventions if you can, to spare the beneficials.

Earwigs These are a potential pest for newly transplanted plants of many kinds, including tomatoes. If you find a plant severed at the base of a stem, dig gently around and look for a C-shaped grub. Protect new seedlings by placing a “collar” around the plant stem, an inch or two deep and extending above the soil. You can use tuna cans or aluminum beverage cans with tops and bottoms removed, or cardboard tubes cut from paper towel rolls.  

In the past, I’ve had problems with earwigs chewing on young seedlings (they hide out in moist places under pots on the patio or in damp mulch and come out at night to munch.) Once plants are established, they are not much of a problem, and earwigs do useful work in the garden by cleaning up dead and dying plants. But as pests, they are easy to trap with a shallow container, like a tuna can, filled with an inch of vegetable oil and a dash of soy sauce. In the morning, empty the captured earwigs into a bucket of soapy water to do them in.

Green colored caterpillar on green plant stem

Tomato hornworms can blend in with foliage and reach up five inches in length.  
Monitor your tomato plants daily and check under the leaves for eggs.  
Photo credit Sheri Elena Quinn.
Tall green tomato plant with a white house and patio table in background

Hornworms can defoliate a plant in a day.  
Photo credit Sheri Elena Quinn.


Hornworms The tomato hornworm and its cousin, the tobacco hornworm, are frequent pests in Northern Nevada gardens. These large caterpillars are the larvae of nocturnal moths, commonly called sphinx or hawk moths. While the moths are handsome and often much admired by those up late enough to see them, their offspring are homely and voracious. A few hornworms can defoliate a tomato plant in a few days. Their size makes them relatively easy to spot on your daily walk, though, and they are easy to pick off and dispose of. Or feed to your chickens if you have some. A side note: The hummingbird moth, or white-lined sphinx moth, that delights many gardeners as it flits about sipping nectar from spring blooms, is not the mother of the tomato hornworm. It flies in the daytime, not at night, and its larvae prefer plants other than tomatoes. Its caterpillars are usually yellowish, not green, and it has horizontal dark stripes, not the white stripes of tomato hornworms. 

Common Non-Pest Problems

Tomatoes are thin-skinned and vulnerable to some disorders caused by environmental stress factors rather than insect, fungus, virus or other biological vectors.

Blossom Drop Perhaps the most disheartening physiological malady is blossom drop, which prevents the tomato from setting fruit at all. A seemingly robust tomato plant may be loaded with yellow blossoms, but they dry up and fall from the plant without setting fruit. This is often caused by a confluence of events, including high temperature, humidity, sunlight intensity, and scarcity of pollinators. Daytime temperatures of 90 degrees will slow fruit set. Temperatures over 94 degrees will stop it altogether, as will nighttime temperatures over 75 degrees. High temperatures may also discourage pollinators. Tomatoes have so-called “perfect” flowers, with male and female parts on the same blossom, which means they can pollinate themselves with an assist from the wind. But on a hot summer day with not even a refreshing breeze, you may need to give your tomato plant a good shaking to stir things up.

A group of small red tomatoes
Blossom end rot has left the tips of some of these plum tomatoes discolored or scabby.
The rest of the ripe tomato is still edible, however.  
Photo credit Janelle Michel.

Red, yellow and green rotten tomatoes.

A severe case of tomato blossom end rot.  
Photo credit Rachel McClure.

Blossom End Rot Your ripening fruit suddenly develops dry brown or black skin at the blossom end, even though the flesh nearest the stem seems normal. This is caused by a calcium deficiency, but it won’t help your tomatoes to add crushed egg shells or calcium supplements to your soil, which in all likelihood has plenty of calcium already. The problem is that the tomato isn’t able to access that calcium in your soil because of inconsistent moisture levels. Regular sufficient watering is the most effective method to prevent this disease. You want consistent, even moisture, not swings between too dry and too wet. Mulch can help. Check moisture levels on every walk in the garden, as diligently as you monitor temperatures, drought conditions, and wind.

White and greenish tomato with a side of it cut

The results of sun scald.
 Photo credit Gail Pothour.

Sun Scald This malady results from fruit getting too much direct sunlight during hot, dry weather. Sun-exposed areas on the fruit overheat and turn yellow or white with a leathery, sunken appearance. The scalded areas may become soft and inedible. If you prune your tomatoes, don’t overdo it. Good air circulation can help prevent fungal diseases and promote ripening, but keep enough foliage to provide some shade to the ripening fruit. Or cover your plants with shade cloth – commercial or homemade with cheesecloth or other thin fabric -- on blistering days.  

A yellow and red tomato

Purple Boy hybrid tomatoes. The left fruit is showing sun yellowing;
the one on the right is the normal ripe color.
Photo credit Gail Pothour.

Solar Yellowing Another problem, related to sun scald, is solar yellowing, or yellow shoulders. This occurs when fruits are beginning to ripen and temperatures rise above 86 degrees. The side of the tomato exposed to the sun stays firm and turns yellow while the protected side softens and turns to its ripe color. Again, there isn’t enough foliage to protect the fruit. The solution is shade cloth. The ripe part of the tomato, however, is still edible.

 In addition to watching for insects or insect damage, inspect your tomato plants regularly for spots, leaf curl, stippling, yellowing, or wilting. Occasionally whole plants need to be removed and discarded to prevent the spread of disease.

Get identification help from the Master Gardeners’ hotline 775-784-0265, or by email at extensionwashoemg@unr.edu.  The help desk, at 4955 Energy Way in Reno, is staffed in person on Tuesday, Wednesday, and Thursday, from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. 

Be prepared to describe your observations and try to take good photos of your plants. If you bring fresh plant materials into the office, put them into plastic bags, and keep different samples separated to keep them free from cross-contamination.

References:

https://extension.unr.edu/publication.aspx?PubID=2681  University of Nevada Reno Extension publication. “Tips for Managing Insect Pests in the Landscape.”

https://extension.usu.edu/yardandgarden/research/tomatoes-in-the-garden Utah State University Extension publication. “How to Grow Tomatoes in Your Garden”

https://extension.umn.edu/vegetables/growing-tomatoes University of Minnesota Extension publication. “Growing Tomatoes in Home Gardens”

https://extension.arizona.edu/publication/tomato-challenges University of Arizona Extension publication.“Tomato Challenges”

A Garden Showcase at Valley Wood Park

Article & photos by Kitty Gillette

MG Photo Submissions

Bright orange colored flowers in the middle of small white  and gray rocks.


Sun azalea blooming after sustaining bobcat damage
Photo by Anna Anderson

Gratitude:
Talks in the Garden

The University of Nevada, Reno, Extension Master Gardener Volunteer Educator program is full of amazing volunteers who are committed to finding and providing scientifically based, university researched horticultural information for people in our community.

Within our program, we have some special volunteers known as leads. Leads are Master Gardeners who dedicate extra time to organize, plan, and execute tasks related to their project or activity. They commit extra time to the program to lead and mentor other Master Gardener volunteers, and make a huge difference in our community as a whole and especially to the Master Gardener program.

One of the ways we provide information to the public is through the Third Thursday Talks, held at the Rancho San Rafael Teaching and Demonstration Gardens from May through September. These talks cover a myriad of gardening topics relevant to local gardeners. They are interactive, often using plants and props from the garden. Deborah (Deb) Whitehouse is the lead who coordinates the talks, ensuring they are fun, educational, and pertinent to what is going on in the garden. Let’s take a minute to get to know Deb from a recent interview:

Person standing at a green picnic table holding a green pot and wearing a green apron with other potted flowers on the table. White stables in the background. Green trees in the background.
Deb Whitehouse working at Rancho San Rafael
community garden. Photo credit Angela White.

Q. What sparked your interest in gardening? 

My mother. She used to drag me out to our vegetable garden in Florida to weed. There I fell in love with being in the garden. I was fascinated by the plants and the bugs. 

Q. What is your gardening passion? 

My passion is how gardening helps us do our part for the planet. I enjoy feeding the soil, improving the environment, and providing food for those in need. My favorite thing is to watch the plants grow. 

Q. How has the Master Gardener Program scientifically helped you in your garden? 

It has helped me understand the ecosystem, the water cycle, and how plants provide habitats and food for the bugs/birds/etc. It has also helped me understand the difference between pests and beneficial insects/bugs and how to recognize them. 

Q. What makes you smile about the Master Gardener Program? 

The people in the program, I love them all!

Q. Share a meaningful Master Gardener volunteer experience. 

At the South Valley Library, I was teaching a class about plant propagation, and one child raised his hand and enthusiastically asked, “Is this about plant sex?”


Q. One word to describe the Master Gardener Program.  

Multifaceted.

Q. Describe your project. 

The Third Thursday Talks are a key part of the “teaching” that goes on in the Community Garden at San Rafael Regional Park. Master Gardeners and interns provide information to the public on many gardening topics. 

Q. What is your vision for your project? 

To expand the audience, to explore topics the public is interested in, and to have the speakers connect the Rancho San Rafael Garden to their topic. 

Q. How will you put that vision into practice? 

By working with the rangers, Washoe County Parks, and UNR Extension to expand advertising of the Third Thursday Talks. And by surveying the attendees to understand their interest level in various topics. 

Q. How does your project benefit the community? 

We bring the public-facing aspect of the Master Gardener program to life by interacting directly with the public on many levels.  The talks provide knowledge and information to people who are curious about starting a garden, planting their first plant. We also help people who have very specific questions about how to solve problems in their gardens. 

Q. What keeps you involved in the Master Gardener program? 

The camaraderie, the exercise, and the learning. 

Q. What would you like others to know about your project that they likely don't know? 

If you attend the Third Thursday Talks, you get to experience the entire Rancho San Rafael Demonstration and Teaching Garden in the Community Gardens. This garden donates 700 to 800 pounds of produce each year to the Reno/Sparks Gospel Mission. 

Three people standing in front of outdoor tables and a sign with pictures with people sitting in chairs


 One of many presentations  given at the Third Thursday talks.

Creating a Pollinator-Friendly Garden

Article & Photos by Leslie Edgington

Ensuring that your garden is pollinator-friendly can make a big difference in its health and sustainability, as well as your enjoyment of it.

Small green bushes with small pink flowers on dirt and rocks
The pink-tinged flowers of dianthus (Dianthus spp.) do well in temperatures 85 degrees F. 
and below, but will go dormant in the high heat of summer. It attracts butterflies 
and other pollinators because of its high nectar content.

A pollinator is anything that moves the pollen from the anthers to the stigma of a plant. The anther is the male part of the plant, and the pistil is the female, or seed-producing, part (the stigma is the sticky part of the pistil that can capture pollen). Insects are the main pollinators, but birds, humans, the wind, small animals, and anything else that comes into contact with plants can perform this function.     

Different kinds of pollinators need different kinds of habitats. In order to welcome insects into your garden, there are a number of considerations to make: First, a source of water is important. While a bird bath is great for birds, it will likely be too deep for insects – and you may find lots of them drowned in it! A better solution for insects is a saucer filled with water and some rocks. The insects can land on the rocks to access the water without falling into it. Keep the water fresh by refilling it often.       

Having some amount of bare ground is important for attracting many insects, including solitary bees like bumble bees, make their nests in the ground, including in holes left by other animals. They spend the winter in the ground, too. Some native bees, like mason bees, need mud to build their nests. Butterflies also need a patch of damp ground for healthy living.

Consider maintaining a small area with a leaf pile or small branches pruned from trees. Such an area can provide nesting sites for insects and places for them to overwinter. Some gardeners prefer to make or purchase insect hotels, which are great, but be sure to clean them every year, or insects won’t return to them.

An obvious way to encourage insects to live in your garden is to limit the use of pesticides. If you can live with some imperfection, that is better than killing the very things you want more of. There are a lot of ways to deter nuisance bugs without using pesticides.

Finally, planting lots of flowering plants attracts insects. Try to ensure that you have plants blooming throughout the spring, summer, and fall. Having a succession of flowering plants will benefit insects year-round. Of course, there are thousands of wonderful flowering plants to choose from. Some popular spring-blooming flowers are tulips, hyacinths, alliums, nepeta, moss phlox, snow in summer, and pansies. Summer-blooming flowers include phlox, penstemons, zinnias, petunias, cosmos, gaura, lavender, and agastache. Fall-blooming plants include black-eyed Susans, salvias, nepeta, and petunias.

Bright yellow and orange colored flowers next to small white flowers with green plants around them.

The red and yellow flowers are black-eyed Susans (Rudbeckia spp).  The white flowers are
feverfew (Tanacetum parthenium.)  Both bloom from July to October. While black-eyed Susans
attract pollinators, feverfew is not a favorite plant of bees.

Make your garden a good food source and home for pollinators, and they will not only entertain you, but also ensure that your garden grows and blooms!

Group of pink flowers, white roses, orange colored flowers and green plants.

Purple coneflower (Echinacea purpurea) thrives in hot,
dry conditions, and blooms in the summer months.

Questions or comments?
Reach out to us!


Group of people sitting and standing next to tractor with trees in background.

 

Help Desk Hours: 10 a.m. - 2 p.m. Tuesdays, Wednesdays & Thursdays
Phone: (775) 784-4848
Email: ExtensionWashoeMG@unr.edu

 
Rachel McClure Master Gardener Coordinator
Phone: (775) 336-0274 
Email:  rmcclure@unr.edu 

McClure, R., Colwell, B., Doolittle, C. 2026, Washoe County Master Gardener Newsletter (2026-06), Extension, University of Nevada, Reno, Newsletters

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