About This Newsletter

Welcome to our newsletter dedicated to gardening enthusiasts in Nevada! Here, the Master Gardener Volunteers of Washoe County are committed to fostering a community of gardening knowledge and education. Through this publication, we aim to provide research-based horticulture insights for our readers. Each quarter, we offer a wealth of information covering various aspects of gardening, from upcoming garden events to advice on topics ranging from pest control to sustainable gardening practices. Join us as we explore the science and artistry of gardening together!

A Note From the Editors

Washoe County Master Gardener Coordinator

Blue gift bag with Master Gardener logo and purple, yellow and orange flower in the background.
Photo by Rachel McClure.

Spotlight Interview

by Kim Hobson

What's Cooking in My Garden?

Photos and article by Beth Heggeness

A black insect with wings on a green plant with white flowers.

Honey bee visiting Greek oregano flowers.

Seed Harvesting and Cleaning: Part 1

Photos & article by Rod Haulenbeek

(This is the first of a three-part series about turning seeds from this year’s flowers into next year’s plants.)

You see an annual or perennial plant you’d like for your yard, and want to get a few of them. Off you go to the nursery, only to find one of two scenarios: 1. These wonderful plants are not available. 2. They are in stock, but only as single plants in 4-inch pots with a sticker-shocking price tag of $13.99. What to do?

How about planting a plant from seed and enjoying its growing into your dream plant?

I’m infected with what I call “Plant Variety Sickness” – I have around 150 kinds of annuals and perennials in my landscape. In Master Gardener potlucks and seed swaps from this fall to next spring, I’ll be giving away seeds. If you want to join me in the sickness, grow your own plants!

I start by harvesting seeds in summer and early fall. The secret to harvesting seeds is timing. Harvest a seed too early and it won’t be ripe enough to germinate; too late, and it’s gone from the plant, either eaten, dropped, or blown away in the wind.

Here are the steps I take to harvest seeds:

1. Identify the desired plant (with location) while in bloom. If you don’t know what it is, you can sign up for an identification app on Inaturalist.org.

2. Once you know what it is, download a picture of the desired plant’s seed from the internet.

3. Return to the plant after one month.

4. Look for a seed head (or fruit or pod, whatever the plant uses to package its seeds) getting brown or gray, indicating it is ripe for harvest.

red and yellow flowers with text that reads: flower on the left, developing fruit and ready to harvest on the right.

A blanket flower (Gaillardia spp.) showing flowers, developing seeds or “fruits”, and the ready-to-harvest seed heads

5. Peel back the seed covering or break it apart to reveal the actual seeds. Examine the seeds (with a hand lens if necessary) and compare them with the internet picture.

6. If the seeds seem to be mature, remove some seed heads, but don’t be greedy! Seeds feed many creatures.

7. Put the seed heads into a plastic baggie, add a strip of masking tape or other writing surface, and label it immediately. Many seeds look similar; I speak from experience.

Here are the steps I take to clean seeds:

1.  Leave the top of the baggie open and allow the contents to dry completely (the seed heads, pods, or fruits should not be soggy when you collect them).

2.  This allows the non-seed parts to dry out and fall apart, making it easier to separate seeds from the rest of the plant material.

3. Dump the contents of the baggie onto a piece of white paper.

4. Separate the actual seeds from surrounding material, checking with the hand lens. If you don’t clean perfectly, it’s okay. Chances are, the first time you do this, you will spot the seeds easily.

Small tan colored seeds and text that reads: blue flax fruits dumped onto paper, blue flax fruits and trash separated.

A harvest of blue flax (Linum lewisii) showing its seed pods before and after cleaning.

5.  Discard the non-seed plant material.

6.  Put the seeds back into the baggie, and store them in a cool, dry place to await planting when the time comes.

Part 2, “Indoor Seed Planting,” will be in the December Master Gardener newsletter, and Part 3, “Transplanting Indoors or Outdoors,” will be in the March Master Gardener newsletter.

Dill Pickle Recipe

Article and photos by Doreen Spires

Autumn Planting for a Spring Extravaganza

Photos & article by  Diane Miniel

Praying Mantis

Photos  and article by Joanne McClain

 Potato Berries

Photo and article by Liz Morrow

A Fall Nuisance

Photos & article by Becky Colwell

Planting Winter Veggies

Photos and article by Diane Miniel

As of September, it’s time to plant winter vegetables – maybe even a little late to plant if starting from seeds.

My first recommendation is to avoid planting mania. That’s what happened to me when I planted my first garden. I planted zucchini, summer squash, romaine lettuce, and cucumbers from seeds. I must have had more than 20 healthy seedlings for each vegetable. I couldn’t bear the thought of planticide. So, I had 20-something of each vegetable. A rookie mistake. If every plant thrived, I would have been overwhelmed with caring for them and dealing with the produce they provided.

I am now more realistic. I only grow enough seedlings to produce what my friends and family will eat. I also have a much better understanding of the time it takes to prepare a proper planting place, water, weed, feed, prune, manage pests, harvest, and store. But it is still difficult for me to toss away healthy vegetable seedlings.

In September I’m planting a winter garden of brassicas, root vegetables, leafy greens, and alliums. 

  • Brassicas: broccoli, cauliflower, kale, cabbage, and collard greens 
  • Root vegetables: radishes, rutabagas, turnips, beets, and carrots
  • Leafy greens: chard, arugula, spinach, and lettuce
  • Alliums: shallots, onions, and garlic


Bunch of broccoli

 Bountiful broccoli from a winter garden.

If this is your first time planting a winter garden, start small by growing one to three kinds of vegetables. Because my family loves the “little trees,” I’ll focus here on broccoli. 

Broccoli: 

Days to Maturity: 
60 to 100 days.

Which variety?
Whether planting from seeds or buying a seedling from a nursery, choose a variety of broccoli for your region’s climate. Arcadia is known to do well in Northern Nevada as a winter crop.

When to plant seeds?
Start seeds indoors one month before planting outside. Follow the instructions on the seed packet.

When and where to plant the seedlings?
It’s best to plant broccoli seeds in early to late July. The seedlings should have two or three sets of leaves before transplanting them into your garden or a container.This year I will still plant seedlings from a nursery in early September.

Put one plant in a five-gallon container or place them 12-18 inches apart if in the ground. Yes, you will need that kind of space once the vegetable matures. Broccoli does best with at least six hours of sun and well-drained soil with a pH of 6.0 to 6.5. Take the time to test your soil. If necessary, amend it or plant broccoli in containers or raised beds in commercial soil.

How much water?
Broccoli needs about one inch of water a week. But watch for signs of stress from heat and wind, which might require more watering. If you get cooler temperatures and abundant rain, water less.  

Temperature:
Broccoli is one of the hardiest vegetables, handling air temperatures of 27 degrees and below. While snow can act as an insulator, vegetables can also be covered with tunnels, cloches, or even newspaper or cardboard on extra-cold nights. Maybe you’ll even be surprised with a spring crop!

Ongoing (daily) care:
Watch out for signs of stress (drooping stalks, withered leaves), inadequate  nutrition (pale green to yellow leaves), and pests (eggs on leaves, nibbled leaves, and “frass,” which is bug poop). Plants are like children; they need your daily attention.

Harvesting and storage:
Harvest broccoli heads while the flower buds are still green and tight, not loose and starting to flower. Refrigerator life is about two weeks, but you can also blanch and freeze broccoli, cut into florets.

Eating:
Eating your homegrown vegetable(s) is the best part! When successfully grown, they taste better than those bought from a store’s produce section. 

References
“Broccoli,” University of California, UC Master Gardener Program of Sonoma County, February 2022. https://sonomamg.ucanr.edu/Vegetable_of_the_Month/Broccoli/ 

“Growing broccoli for beginners,” West Virginia Extension, Reviewed May 2023. https://extension.wvu.edu/lawn-gardening-pests/gardening/gardening-101/growing-broccoli-for-beginners 

“Growing broccoli in home gardens,” University of Minnesota Extension. Reviewed in 2022. https://extension.umn.edu/vegetables/growing-broccoli 

“These cold-hardy vegetables may stick it out through winter,” Oregon State University Extension Service, September 2023. https://extension.oregonstate.edu/news/these-cold-hardy-vegetables-may-stick-it-out-through-winter

The Blooming Truth About Boron

Photo and article by Victoria Gutierrez

 

If you live in South Reno and particularly the Double Diamond area, you have probably heard of boron. You may have even heard something about the native soil having an excess of it. But maybe you don’t fully understand why it is vitally important to keep boron levels in mind when planning or adding to a landscape.     

Maybe, like me, you moved to the area and thought to yourself, “How bad can it be?” You went ahead and planted whatever you wanted. Ultimately, your new addition withered and died, leaving you wondering where you went wrong.

To avoid this in the future, it helps to understand a little about boron. It is a micronutrient that is essential for plant development. It influences cell membrane function, root elongation, the production of pollen, and the transportation of proteins and carbohydrates. But at high levels, boron is toxic to many trees and shrubs – and there is a thin line between what’s essential and what’s harmful.

Symptoms of boron toxicity are species-dependent. For example, conifers may show browning of needles from the tip toward the branch. In many other species, the first signs of boron toxicity are often yellowing of leaves and scorching on leaf edges. But these can also be signs of high salinity or deficiency of iron or manganese, making it difficult to diagnose the real issue. An absolute diagnosis probably will require soil, water, or tissue testing.

These problematic  soils are not uncommon in low areas in Nevada, where runoff water collects, along with fine sediment (clay particles) and dissolved salts. As the pooled water evaporates or infiltrates, the fine sediments and salts are left behind. Over time, the concentration of salts and boron can reach levels that inhibit plant growth. An extreme example is the Black Rock Desert in Pershing County, where the Burning Man Festival is held each year. 

It is not possible to eradicate boron in native soil. It is water-soluble and mobile, meaning it moves up in the soil as water evaporates and is pushed down when fresh water is applied. Even if all the topsoil in a given area is replaced, boron will eventually travel up from below to permeate the new soil. Amendments such as organic matter, gypsum, and sulfur can improve soil structure, but have little effect on the presence of boron.

So what can be done to improve the situation? Careful plant selection is a must. Some trees and shrubs are more sensitive to boron than others. One suggestion is the practice of planting in mounds, where new topsoil (or other planting substrate) is placed on top of native soil. This places many of the feeder roots above the boron-laden soil. Mounds should be at least 12 inches high and extend past the drip line of the tree or shrub. This option can work well for group plantings.

Another suggestion is extensive use of raised beds, pots, and planters. These allow for complete control of the planting medium without worry about boron whatsoever. For most homeowners, the answer is a mix of these remedies along with trial and error. 



raised garden beds with yellow flowers and black metal table.
Raised beds and containers are a
useful (and attractive) solution to boron-heavy soil.

In case this has you thinking about your lawn now, boron is not as big of an issue with turf grasses. Symptoms show up in the tips of the blades first. As turf grass is fast-growing and cut regularly, you are not likely to see a problem from boron in the soil. Anyone putting in a new lawn might consider warm-season grasses, such as Bermuda or zoysia, which are more      tolerant of boron overall, rather than cool-season grasses, such as Kentucky bluegrass and perennial ryegrass.

Here are some trees and shrubs to consider, and some you probably want to avoid. Please bear in mind that these are not exhaustive lists. The Master Gardener Help Desk at the UNR Extension Office in Reno can provide you with more suggestions, including the publication cited below.

Boron-Tolerant Trees and Shrubs
Atlas cedar (Cedrus atlantica), Washington hawthorn (Crataegus phaenopyrum), Italian cypress (Cupressus sempervirens), purple leaf plum (Prunus cerasifera), and crabapple (Malus hybrids).

Japanese boxwood (Buxus microphylla var. japonica), wild lilac (Ceanothus spp.), wall germander (Teucrium chamaedrys), and pfitzeriana or Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinesis).

Boron-Sensitive Trees and Shrubs
Redbud (Cercis spp.), thornless honey locust (Gleditsia triacanthos var. inermis), magnolia (Magnolia spp.), sweet cherry (Prunus avium), and peach (Prunus persica).

Japanese euonymus (Euonymus japonicus), Oregon grape (Mahonia aquifolium), Fraser photinia (Photinia x fraseri), and Chinese photinia (Photinia serrulata).

Resources
“Boron- and Salt-Tolerant Trees and Shrubs for Northern Nevada,” Kratsch, H., Extension, University of Nevada, Reno, SP-13-04

Gratitude

Two people wearing green shirts smiling at camera standing in front of a tree.

Shari Elena Quinn and Linda Fulton.

We have so much to be thankful for.  The University of Nevada, Reno Extension Master Gardener Program is full of amazing volunteers who are committed to finding and providing scientifically based, university researched horticultural information for people in our community.  We do a lot!  We get to work with and volunteer with amazing people here in Washoe County!

We couldn’t do what we do, without the help and support of our community, our University and Extension Partners and the amazing dedication of our Master Gardener Volunteers.  Within our program we have some extra special volunteers knows as Leads.  They are the lead volunteers of various programs and activities. Leads are Master Gardeners that dedicate extra time to organize, plan, and execute tasks related to their project or activity.  They do this by dedicating extra time to the program to lead and mentor our other Master Gardner volunteers to give them the resources and confidence to provide education to our community.   They make a huge difference in our community and especially to the Master Gardener Program.

One such program is the Northern Nevada State Veterans Home with Master Gardeners Lead Shari Elena Quinn and Co- Lead Linda Fulton.  Together they are an amazing force. They stepped up during COVID to start a program for a special group of at-risk people who needed more from their community.  Let’s take a minute to get to know Shari Elena & Linda from a recent interview:

Interview with Shari Elena:

  1.  What sparked your interest in gardening?
    1.  Shari: I was raised in apartments all my life. I relocated from Los Angeles to Reno, purchased a home and this was the first time we had space to garden. Linda: It all started when my mom let me plant radish seeds when I was 4 years old.  After I retired and moved to Nevada, I learned this climate is a whole different ball game than what I was used to. 
  2. What is your gardening passion?
    1.  Shari Elena: To make things grow and survive the heat and weather here in Nevada. Linda: Right now, native plants and vegetables.  I always wanted to know how the ancients grew things.
  3.  How has the Master Gardener Program scientifically helped you in your garden?
    1.  Shari Elena: It’s taught me about insects and the right and wrong way to care for plants: watering, shade, soil sun, fertilizer.  One of the best classes we had was the botany class and I’m always going over my botany notes.  Lately we’ve had insect classes and bee and butterfly classes.  I didn’t realize how many species of bees we have in NV. The MG program has been extremely educational. Linda: Right now, native plants and vegetables.  I always wanted to know how the ancients grew things.
  4.  What makes you smile about the Master Gardener Program?
    1.  Shari: The events- annually we have different events to attend and each year they vary farm day, field day, home show, appreciation day at Greenhouse Garden Cetner. Linda: The passion the public shows when they tell us about their garden.  Also, the other Master Gardeners.  They are a bunch of fun folks. 
  5. Share a meaningful Master Gardener volunteer experience. 
    1.  Shari: I had the honor of working at Mariposa Academy with Kindergarten through-5th grade students Through Mariposa Academy. I was able to help with classroom exercises on planting seeds. The young children were so excited to plant a seed and press it down in soil and watch it grow, and then harvest. Every kid is different, but I felt every child should have the experience of gardening. Linda: I like it when I don’t understand something and then the lightbulb goes on and I have that A-Ha moment when I understand.  Seeing the bigger picture and opening my curiosity. 
  6. One word to describe the Master Gardener Program.
    1.  Shari Elena: Educational- extremely educational.  Linda: Educational, but it’s more than that. It’s more about exploring.
  7. The Master Gardener program could not function without the help of MG Leads. What inspired you to become a Lead?
    1. Linda: Shari Elena told me I had to 😊
  8. Describe the program you Lead and how it impacts the community.
    1. Shari: Northern Nevada State Veterans Home- We have taken the responsibility of keeping the conservatory plants and the four courtyard gardens alive and healthy. We work with the residents by talking to them weekly about what’s in the conservatory, the type of plants, leaf texture, flower fragrance and their reaction to the fragrance, the colors and what they enjoy.  We also talk with them about planting and propagating. Linda: We take care of the plants in the conservatory and outside garden courtyards. Most of the residents are long term memory and it brings a smile to their face.  They like the interaction with the plants. 
  9. What has been your greatest challenge as a Lead?
    1. Shari: It would be nice to have more than 7-9 residents participating at a time, but the space is very small.  Seven residents make for a crowd in the conservatory.  I’d like to find ways to get the residents to participate in planting.  We can’t do it in the dining room for cleanliness reasons nor go outside due to temperatures.  I’d like, perhaps, to create a monthly flower experience so they could each hold, touch and smell the flower.  Linda: I would like to see more Master Gardeners get involved.
  10.  What has been your greatest joy as a Lead?
    1. Shari: I was thinking about rotating residents- one small group on 1st and 3rd Tuesday and a second group on the 2nd and 4th Tuesdays. We could bring in donated plants and have the residents help pot and water them 
  11. What would like to see next for your program?
    1. Shari: It benefits the veterans who served our country and who deserve to be living in a beautiful environment. As to the community, it serves the spouses, friends and family members who come to visit their loved ones.  It provides enrichment and stimulation for the residents. Also, the staff often takes breaks in the conservatory. Linda: We are a calming presence.  We educate and answer questions and give residents meaningful things to do. 
  12. If someone is thinking about becoming a Master Gardener, what would you tell them?
    1. Shari: It’s extremely rewarding working with the veterans and providing stimulation for them on a weekly basis.
  13. What keeps you involved in the Master Gardener program? 
    1.  Shari: I keep learning new things and new classes keep coming up. Our continuing education has gotten more exciting such as catching and pinning insects and the bee and butterfly class. Linda: I like playing detective, what’s that bug, why is my plat problem.  I like being able to find solutions.

Shari Elena, and Linda are in their second year of being a Lead at the Northern Nevada Veterans Home.  We are so grateful for what they do for our community! This year they received an award recognizing their volunteer work in excess of $20,000 of volunteer time.

The Master Gardener Program is so grateful to you both!

A person wearing glasses and a hat holding a plant and smiling at the camera.

Linda in the greenhouse.

Peron wearing red hat, sunglasses and standing at a garden bed with yellow and purple flowers. A tree in the background.

Shari at the Veterans Home.

SThree people standing under red, blue, white balloon arch.

Linda and Shari receiving 
the Veterans Home Award.

Master Gardener Photos 

A see through dragon fly on a yellowish green plant.

Golden Dragonfly Wing Skimmer.
by Liz Morrow.

A bee inside a purple flower.

Honey bee visiting Canterbury Storybook Bell. 
Photo by Sheri Elena Quinn.

a hole in the dirt.

I discovered this native bee nest in my yard.
by Kathi Linehan.

Small black and yellow beetle on a leaf with small white buds.

Lady beetle larva on showy milkweed. 
Photo by Liz Morrow.

A leaf bush.

Leafcutter bees love my Bombshell Hydrangea plant. 
Photo by Anna Anderson.

Pink colored flower on a cactus.

Spineless prickly pear blossom, a gift from Joanne McClain.
Photo by Liz Morrow.

Yellow sunflower in a garden with sunset in the background.

Sunflower at sunset taken with vibrant setting.
by Joanne McClain.

Yellow and black butterfly on purple tall flowers.

Western Tiger Swallowtail visiting Rocky Mountain Penstemon.
Photo by Shari Elena Quinn.

Small brownish black spider on yellow petals.

Jumping spider waiting for prey on a sunflower petal.
by Joan Bohmann.

A hand holding large garlic bulb with dirt on it.

Sample of Transylvania softneck garlic harvest.
Photo by Liz Morrow.

Yellow and black butterfly on green bush with pink flowers.

Swallowtail butterfly enjoying showy milkweed flowers. 
Photo by Liz Morrow.

Tan colored moth on center of yellow sunflower.

Skipper butterfly enjoying sunflower nectar.

Creative-Inspirational Photos Needed

Photos & article by  Wendy Hanson Mazet

Questions or comments?
Reach out to us!

 

 

Help Desk Hours:
May - September, 9 a.m. - 4 p.m. Tuesdays, Wednesdays & Thursdays.  
October - April, 10 a.m. - 2 p.m. Tuesdays, Wednesdays & Thursdays. 
Phone: 775-784-4848
Email: mastergardeners@unce.unr.edu

 
Rachel McClure Master Gardener Coordinator
Phone: 775-336-0274
Email:  rmcclure@unr.edu 

McClure, R., Colwell, B., Doolittle, C. 2024, Washoe County Master Gardener Newsletter (2024-09), Extension, University of Nevada, Reno, Newsletters

Learn more about the author(s)